What a loctician can do for your locs

Blend Images/Trinette Reed

Yes, I know. Part of the reason you went natural was to break free of the beauty shop routine. Yet it seems that you’re “loc’d” in another routine altogether in the loctician’s chair. You may not go as often as you did when you had relaxed hair, but as new growth comes in, special occasions, or for other reasons, you seem to spend about the same amount of time in one sitting as you did before locs.

Many other bloggers have proclaimed their freedom from the salon by doing their locs themselves. Unfortunately, I’m not one of them. My arms get tired from trying to twist and turn, using a latchhook (as my locs are tightened by using locstitching), or just plain holding them up.

Why use a loctician? For their expertise. Yes, I know the techniques. You may know some, too. Even so, just remembering how tired my arms feel from doing myself makes me do a beeline to the loctician’s chair.

Here are a few good reasons to go to a loctician:

A good loctician will assess the condition of your locs, Are your locs dry? What’s your natural hair type? (See last week’s post.) Are you missing something in your routine or in your diet? A loctician has seen it, been there, and done that. He or she will know what is needed for your hair type.

A good loctician will provide professional and low-risk performance of services. Coloring locs is no easy process and inherent with risk. Starting locs is also something that locticians do best, as they know your hair type and know when to do palm rolling, locstitching, backcombing or other methods. A loctician will get your locs off to their best start.

Locticians are style doctors. Your loctician is your natural hair guide to styles you haven’t ever thought of before. Want to do something different for the office or that party coming up? A loctician is who you would ask.

A loctician is your beauty supply hookup. Looking for the right products for your routine? Just ask. Their expertise can guide you to the right shampoo, conditioner, or natural oil. If he or she doesn’t share, it may be a legitimate reason to move on.

If going to a loctician very often is expensive for you, here are some options:

Go for loc starts and maintenance only. Get your consultation from your loctician when you start your locs. Go every 4-6 weeks (or for some 6-8 weeks) for a loc maintenance for the new growth. Shampoo and condition yourself, and go to resources like Loc’d Life on how to care for your locs in between visits.

Oil your locs and wrap them up at night. These two parts of your loc care regimen help keep your locs looking their best between visits. Both help keep dryness—the number one enemy of locs—at bay.

Remember, your loctician is your guide for the journey. It helps to have someone to lead and guide you along the way throughout the process.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

Does your hair type match your loc maintenance method?

There are many ways to start and maintain locs. There’s palm rolling, interlocking/loc stitching, braiding, two-strand twists, backcombing, and freeform.

For loc maintenance, the most popular methods continue to be palmrolling, and locstitching.

But how do you determine which method is best for your hair type if your just starting out with locs? And if you already have your locs, which method works best to maintain your new growth?

For me, my unlocked, natural hair is wavy. Palm rolling would probably not work for me. So my loctician (who at the time was Swazi, see a previous post) used the lockstitch method. Others have more curly, tightly coiled hair, so palm rolling will work.

It all comes down to your hair type (and of course your lifestyle—active, swimmers, etc.) The following chart, developed by famed Oprah hairstylist Andre Walker shows that each of us has a specific hair type, and that hair type correlates to the type of loc method used.

Type 1: Straight

This is mostly found in mostly Caucasian hair textures. Those with this texture hair may need the most adhering loc methods and products. Backcombing with a good dread wax works best.

Type 2: Wavy

This texture comes in three types: 2A, 2B, and 2C. (My texture as described above falls into this category). A more interwoven method works best for loc starts and maintenance.  A loc stitch, where a latching needle is used to interweave parted hairs into a crochet type pattern, works best for this hair type. Hair stays put and is already “loc’d” so that it will have the opportunity to so in time. This method is also great for active lifestyles that require frequent shampoos.

Type 3: Curly

For this hair type, hair is more tightly formed into a curl. Interlocking works well with this hair type, as it is still relatively straighter than Type 3 hair textures and can still be easily combed through. Interlocking/loc stitching also works with this looser hair type. Braids, two-strand twists will also work over time.

Type 4: Coily

This is usually the coarse, tightly coiled hair that easily tangles. A variety of methods work best with this hair type. Palm rolling and freeform locing will work. Braids, two-strand twists, and loc stitching will all work. Locs are formed faster.

Keep in mind that with all natural hair, we will have a variety of hair types on one head. The front may be a Type 3 and the back can be a Type 4.

There you have it: a guide to the natural textures that make up natural hair before it’s loc’d. Remember, a consultation with a loctician will best help determine which method works for you.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

Honey, it’s locs!

Larry Williams/Corbis

In search of products that care for your locs, there is one natural ingredient out there that can add and retain moisture.

It’s honey.

Vicky Snow

All natural honey is one of nature’s best-kept secrets. Some do use it straight to start out their locs (twists) or retwist new growth (Make sure you oil your scalp thoroughly beforehand.). However, it is probably best to use products that contain it as an ingredient, rather than using it straight. Honey does tout great benefits:

• It’s an antibacterial agent. Honey is a natural antibacterial agent that keeps bacteria at bay. That’s great for your scalp, as some forms of hair loss can be traced to a bacteria buildup.

• It’s a humectant. Like glycerin, honey draws moisture from the air to moisturize.

• It’s an antioxidant. Honey contains antioxidants that protect your cells by blocking free radicals—molecules we encounter daily in our environment that can lead to cancer.

Look for honey in your hair care regimen in these products:

Naked Honey and Almond Moisture Whip Conditioner by Essations This conditioner moisturizes and leaves locs soft and supple. Honey, sweet almond oil, keratin protein and Vitamin B-5 all combine to moisturize each loc without buildup or leaving a “coated” feeling.

100% Pure Honey & Virgin Coconut Restorative Shampoo This shampoo hydrates with a powerful combination of honey and coconut oil. It also contains aloe vera, rose flower water, glycerin, and vitamin E.

Tea and Honey Blends Tea Tree Shampoo Tea tree stimulates the scalp along with jojoba oil, clove, rosemary and peppermint to combine for a refreshing shampoo.

Honey is a great natural ingredient to look for in your loc care regimen. To moisturize and for other benefits, it is a natural keeper.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

 

 

Great news and another great loc shampoo

I made it. Here I am on graduation day yesterday with (from left to right) Dad Clinton, son Rowan, me, husband Walter, Mom Joyce and Aunt Daphne.

This is going to be a short post, as I just graduated yesterday from DePaul University with my second masters: a Master of Arts in Educating Adults. I made it! And I will use this degree, not only as a college professor on my day job, but in educating others about how to care for and maintain beautiful locs, and how to show pride in wearing them.

A few weeks ago, I did a poll on loc shampoos and on which brand you use. I will report back on my findings soon, but in the meantime, I will tell you about another great shampoo find: African Black Soap.

The brand I used was RA Cosmetics 100% Black Soap. It is a liquid soap with its ingredients listed as honey (as its first ingredient), shea butter, osun, cocoa pod powder, plantain peel powder, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, water, and aloe vera. The soap lathered quickly, moisturized my locs very well, and rinsed easily. Like liquid castile soap, it is touted as a body care soap. However, as a shampoo, it moisturizes as it cleanses. It has a light texture, leaving the possibility for buildup at a minimum.

African Black Soap is a great loc shampoo. It is all natural, and it gentle enough for cleansing without drying. It is also inexpensive. Keep it in mind when you look for a shampoo.

As for my degree, I will continue to look for ways to educate, elevate, and illuminate, whether it’s locs, design, or on how to make the world a better place for all.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

The Loc Bun Redux

Photos by Walter S. Mitchell, III

As I walked around on one of the first great weekends of summer, my mid-back length locs felt heavy. I know that there’ll be even hotter days ahead, and I know that I’ll be looking for stylish ways to put my locs up off of my face.

Photo by Walter S. Mitchell, III

I’ve seen those mesh circles at beauty supply stores, and other places, even at Payless. They come in black, brown, and I’ve seen them in white. For only a $1.00, you, too, can have a stylish bun updo that works for formal occasions, at the office, or for walking around. I wouldn’t use the Velcro-based ones, however, as removing them could do some unnecessary damage. Today, I took the plunge and decided to buy one and write about the art of wearing a bun with one of them. I’ve done this before in an earlier post, and here’s how again:

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  Form a ponytail by placing your locs through the hole in the center of the ring. This could be a high or low ponytail, with high being placed at the crown and low at the base of the neck. Push the mesh ring back to the base of the ponytail to firmly secure it.

• Once the locs are through the center hole, “flower” the locs by having them sprout through the center and wrap around the top of the mesh, covering it.
• Beginning at the top of the circle, start twisting the locs over the mesh, covering it, and tucking your locs in (under the mesh) as you go.
• Continue until the entire mesh is covered and all the locs are neatly tucked in underneath.

That’s it. You have a chic bun that works for those loc days of summer, when you’re screaming “Updo!”

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

“Mommy, Daddy, I want locs!”

Enamul Hoque/Getty Images

How would you respond?

Each week, I write about the joys, trials, and tribulations about having locs. Let’s face it: until recently, wearing locs has been hard. Adults have had to navigate their world all the way, from the family room to the boardroom. Peering questions from family members, such as, “Is that permanent?” to “When are you going to fix your hair?” abound. Some have had to wear wigs to cover up their locs in the corporate world and in Hollywood. Today, we still have our moments where we struggle for acceptance.

For kids, having locs has also been a struggle. In 2010, two students in Mississippi were banned from their school’s homecoming for having locs. In Minnesota, a 12-year-old boy was suspended for refusing to cut his locs. In 2004, a Trinidadian 12-year-old girl was transferred from her school for having locs.

So…back to the original question: How would you respond if your child asked to get locs? Would it be yes or no?

 Here are some tips:

1)    Talk about it. Sit down with your child and discuss what locs are, how they are maintained, and instill positive images about natural hair.

2)    Think about it. Getting locs is a big step and a transformation. Also discuss that locs are somewhat permanent. If your child wants a change later on, he or she will either have to cut them off or go through the arduous process of detangling each loc.

3)    Get a consultation. Bring your loctician into the process and add his or her expertise in the decision-making. You’ll also get the best advice on how to start them depending on their hair type: locstitch, palm-rolling, braids, or two-strand twists.

4)    Keep them maintained. Locs can be high-maintenance. Keep them neat with regular grooming of the new-growth. Kids play hard, so keep your child’s active lifestyle in mind. See last week’s post for sports activities like swimming.

5)    Locs are a journey. As your child grows, so will their locs. Help them mature along with the process, while always affirming your child’s individualism and beauty.

Loc’d Life believes that locs are as individual as the person who wears them. That goes for kids, too! And as adults are free to express themselves with their style, our children need our guidance and love to express themselves beautifully—both inside and out.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
www.locdlife.com

Loc’d Life’s Swimmers Guide

With Memorial Day being the unofficial start of summer, (and a reader request!), I wanted to talk about swimming and locs.

I guarantee that a pool—or some body of water in which to swim—will make an appearance in your summer. Swimming is a great form of exercise, too.

Loc wearers have to be careful when it comes to swimming. Yes, we enjoy the freedoms of wash-and-go hair, but you do need to protect and remove what salty oceans, chlorinated pools, and even the sun’s UV rays can do to locs.

What does it do? Dry locs out within an inch of their lives! A few years ago, I remember talking to a loc’d lifeguard who color treated his tips. He found that one day his locs just started snapping right off! ESPECIALLY if you’re your locs are color-treated, you need to take special care to enjoy your day at the pool. Here’s how:

1. Add a protective barrier before your dip. Pre-condition your locs before they get in contact with water. One way is to thoroughly wet your locs with tap water. If they’re wet to begin with, their will be less room for pool water absorption later on. Another way is to use an oil barrier. You can use 100 percent shea butter on your locs, ensuring that you coat every loc from root to tip. You can also mix shea butter oil with olive and coconut oil to coat your locs, again from root to tip. Finally you can get an off-the shelf pre-treatment such as Reflect H20 Pre-Swim & Sun Protecting Gel. Work this gel in your locs beforehand. It is enriched with aloe leaf juice, rosemary, ivy extract, pro vitamin B5, Vitamin E and rice protein.

2. Wear a swim cap. Most swim caps won’t completely protect your locs from getting wet. You will get some seepage behind the ears and around the edges. But for the most part, it will work. Here’s the challenging part: What will fit over longer, thicker locs? One to try: My Swim Cap in the Diva size (http://myswimstuff.com), sized especially for longer hair. It works with a band that wraps around the base and is secured with Velcro. Another one to dry, made especially for locs is Dreadscapes swim caps. (They also make shower caps, too!) Yet another loc-specific choice is EGGhead Soques’ Swim Soque (http://eggheadsoques.com), made of neoprene and nylon. Whatever your choice, you can place your locs in a high ponytail and place the cap over them, completely folding your locs inside and covering the edges and base of your hair. For silicone caps, be careful with jewelry, sharp nails and other puncturing hazards. If you must be a true diva pool- or ocean-side, you can leave your locs treated (see #1) and uncovered outside the water, then put your cap on just for swimming.

3. Rinse your locs after your dip. Start with a full-on water rinse and thoroughly rinse to remove as much salt or chlorine as possible. This also removes sweat, sand, and air-borne pollutants as well.

4. Try a chorine-removing shampoo for your first lathering. There are many on the market that will remove chlorine. Some are more natural than others in doing the job. One to try: Aubrey’s Organics Swimmers Shampoo, which is a naturally-based shampoo that rids locs of chlorine with organic rice extract and conditions and protects with jojoba oil, quinoa protein, and sweet almond oil. Another one to try is TriSwim Shampoo, which removes chlorine, chlorine odor, salt, and the greenish tint some may experience with lighter, color-treated locs. It contains aloe vera and ProVitamins B5 and A. What is unique to note about this shampoo is that it’s sold in large, bulk bottles, which cost $75. If you swim a lot and have long locs, your locs will laugh at a small tube of shampoo! Use it for your first lathering. You can then follow up with your regular shampoo.

5. Deep condition your locs. You’re almost there! A deep conditioner will do wonders. A hot oil treatment, a hair masque, or your regular deep conditioner will work. Remember, if you don’t regularly deep condition your hair and you swim very often, you will need to do something regularly that penetrates into your locs to restore the drying effects of salt, sweat, and chlorine. An instant conditioner just won’t do.

6. Air dry your crown. It would be a shame to do all this restorative treatment, only to use a blow dryer to dry your locs out. Try to let your locs air dry, as this is the most gentle way to dry. Make sure that you let them dry thoroughly.

7. Take it easy on coloring your locs. This may be the season to reconsider how often you color your locs. Chlorine and ammonia (and the other harsh chemicals of hair color) just don’t mix! Wait a little longer between touchups or consider a natural hair color product. There are also home remedies, such as a black coffee rinse for locs to darken them, or a lemon juice rinse to lighten locs. To darken, soak locs in your darkest brew of coffee possible. Let it cool, apply to locs, and let it sit for a while to achieve the desired color. To lighten, apply lemon juice and sit in the sun a while. Even lemon juice can be drying, so read the above about deep conditioning afterwards.

8. Tell your loctician you are a swimmer. He or she will keep that in mind when doing services such as coloring or conditioning.

9. Be careful of wearing elaborate styles and swimming. With updos in particular, you will need to take them down to fully rinse and remove salt and chlorine and to fully condition. You can be cute—just remember cute and dry locs don’t work too well!

That’s it—your Loc’d Life Guide to swimming with locs. Have fun in the sun. Just don’t forget about caring for your crown! Also, don’t forget to vote for your loc shampoo. Keep those votes coming!

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

 

 

 

The Dirty Truth About Some Loc Shampoos

© Vincent Mo/Corbis

After I write this blog tonight, I look forward to a quick and relaxing time shampooing my locs. My tried and true staple: liquid castile soaps, such as Dr. Bronners Magic Soaps or Ology Pure Castile Liquid Soap.

This tried and true staple has not gotten its title easily. It took many years of trial and error (and discipline!) not to continually try different products, get disappointed, only to come back to the basics. I do love to experiment, but as I’ve written before, simplicity is best when it comes to your loc regimen.

Shampoos hold a dirty little secret to its sudsy base: dryness. Many operate by stripping your hair completely of everything—dirt and natural oils—to get clean. Then we slather on a whole host of products to put back that moisture. If you are looking for your staple, you’ll need to be an informed consumer on what will work versus what won’t.

One shampoo I used in the past when my hair was relaxed had petroleum—yes petroleum—as an ingredient. It was touted as a great shampoo for black hair. Another shampoo I used was a crème shampoo that lathered great—but ultimately dried out my hair. Yet another type—bar shampoos that really dried out my locs. My latest complaint, as my locs are getting longer, is that many of the shampoos I try need so much product to lather, that I end up using an entire bottle for just for one shampoo! Two or three bottles, or the salon professional size may be needed.

Here’s a list of ingredients to look for in your shampoos that will guide you to that perfect product.

1)   Water. The original moisturizer. The simple act of washing your locs adds needed moisture. Having it as an ingredient in your shampoo is natural as it aids in delivery of the shampoo’s ingredients to your hair. If it’s the first ingredient, even better. Drinking water adds moisture from the inside, too.

2)   Coconut Oil. This is the one oil that actually seeps into my hair and penetrates. It is also a great natural moisturizer. And when locs are at its optimal moisture level, it grows.

3)   Olive oil. There’s a reason that there’s a host of products based in olive oil. It, too, is also an excellent moisturizer. It is not too pricey, and the list is endless for products which use it as its base. Olive oil is also a great carrier oil for essential oils. Look for it at the top of your ingredient list for the maximum benefits.

4)   Aloe vera. Some loc wearers use pure aloe vera gel as their only maintenance gel for palm rolling and interlocking. Aloe helps heal many skin conditions and also does wonders for hair.

5)   Castor Oil. Castor oil also moisturizes and is great for thickening hair. It has been touted as a cure for hair edges that have thinned due to damage and breakage.

6)   Shea Butter. Another natural moisturizer is shea butter, known for its transformative effects in softening and moisturizing hair and scalp.

Look for shampoos that are sulfate-free, as sulfates dry out your hair. Also look for natural ingredients. Note that everything listed above is natural or naturally-derived. We need to get back to the basics when it comes to our hair. If our hair is natural, our products should be also.

Take our survey:

Loc’d Life is looking for a listing of shampoos that you use for your locs. The list is varied, but we want to know what you use for your locs. Check the button to select or write in your choice. The results will be published in an upcoming post.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

 

 

 

 

Loc styles and more from the AHBAI Proud Lady Beauty Show

 

 

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Here I am (standing, right) at the Natural Hair Forum at the AHBAI show. Also standing (at podium) is Amazon Peyton Smiley, who moderated the panel. From left to right: Chris-Tia Donaldson, Twanna Patrick, Frances Simmons, and Chatto Wright.

First of all Happy Mother’s Day to everyone!

If you didn’t get to the AHBAI Proud Lady Beauty Show, you missed out on an informative time near Chicago! I took part in a panel discussion on Natural Hair Care last Sunday, hosted by Amazon Smiley of Amazon Natural Essentials. Also on the panel was Chris-Tia Donaldson of Thank God It’s Natural Hair Products, Tywanna Patrick of Nu B-ginNs Holistic Hair Center in Chicago, Frances Simmons, Wrap Braid Author, Instructor, and the creator of educational workshops for parents and youth, and Chatto Wright, owner of Chatto’s Salon and the Chatto line of Skin and Hair Care.

The audience asked many insightful questions, such as what natural oils are best to use on natural hair, hair steamers (good for locs, as they help products to penetrate hair and scalp), defining good natural hair products and ingredients, and how to fight humidity. Perhaps the most thought-provoking question asked was this: Is there a situation where natural hair is not suited for someone? You know my answer—an emphatic no! And that is the case for locs as well.

My answer: Some are fearful that natural hair may negatively impact their image, such as in their careers or in their relationships. Some resort to wigs to cover up their natural hair and their locs. I am reminded that in a culture where we have been told for hundred of years that our hair in our natural state is unacceptable, that this is our God-given hair. How could it not be suitable?

I am also reminded of a friend of mine, Akua Auset, who said that she was an adult before she saw her own natural hair texture for the first time. I am thankful that we are finally realizing the beauty of our own natural tresses.

You could also see the trend towards natural hair in the show’s vendors. Companies such as Avlon, Luster Products, and others have embraced the natural movement with products for transitioning, curl definition and support for the various ways we wear our hair naturally.

I also stopped by the StylistOnline.com booth, where they did loc repairs and sold instructional DVDs on loc maintenance, repairs, styling, and starting. I met Ms. Reeta there from All Naturale’ Beauty, a Loc’d Life Magazine reader! JustinKase, another reader, was also there, highlighting his Styling Puddy from his line of products.

I also stopped by the Sophisticate’s Black Hair booth, where I saw publisher Jim Spurlock, publishing director Bonnie Kreuger, editor Jocelyn Amador, and Linda Rolle, administrative associate. I was an art director there a few years ago!

Also, a few of you out there tried to buy the Naked Honey & Almond Moisture Whip Conditioner, and you were asked for a stylist license number. I found another distributor that does not require that information: Ensley Beauty Supply at www.ensleybeautysupply.com.

‘Till next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com

Glycerin for locs and other news

Corbis Images

Watch for a special mid-week report from the 2014 AHBAI Proud Lady Beauty Show, this weekend at the Tinley Park Convention Center in Illinois. Black hair is on display in its myriad of forms this weekend. If you’re in town, don’t miss it. The show ends Monday, May 5.

Where: 2014 AHBAI Proud Lady Beauty Show
Tinley Park Convention Center,
18501 S. Harlem Avenue

In the meantime, a reader wrote me asking if glycerin is good for locs. After doing some research—and some purchasing— I realized that glycerin has been in my hair care all along.

It sat in the background of the conditioners I’ve used in the past. Now that I am wearing locs, it is part of a natural product regimen that can remoisturize dry, thirsty locs.

Heritage Products Rosewater and Glycerin is a powerful leave-in conditioning mist.

Glycerin is a thick, clear, colorless liquid that is used in soaps and other beauty products. It is a humectant, meaning that it absorbs water. It can do so from the air. It can also seal in moisture on skin and hair. However, glycerin works best when mixed with water. If used straight, it can leave a sticky mess.

You can buy pure vegetable glycerin at your local health food store. Even better, you can buy a rosewater and glycerin mix there, too. The two combine into a powerful leave-in conditioner that can be placed in a spray bottle and can be used to remoisturize in-between shampoos.

During my research, I even purchased a product with glycerin and didn’t even know it. It was the Amazon Natural Essentials Revitalizing Oil Spray ($12, http://www.amazonsalon.com; call 773-256-0500 to order.), whose main ingredients are water, aloe vera oil and glycerin. Shanda Wright of Amazon Natural Essentials sprayed it on my locs right after my shampoo and right before doing my locstitch. The result—soft locs when dry. (I’ll write more about it during my special report from AHBAI).

Here’s another way to use glycerine for your locs:

Daily Leave in Spritz

Combine the following into an 8 oz. bottle:

2.5 tbsp. glycerin
1 tbsp. Olive Oil
Essential Oil of your choice (limit 2, use as much as desired)
1 tbsp. Rose water
Distilled water (fill to top)

Spray as needed to keep locs moist.

Sunny Isle Rosemary Jamaican Black Castor Oil Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner has glycerin in its ingredient list.

Sunny Isle Rosemary Jamaican Black Castor Oil Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner. The Shampoo contains glycerin as well as rosemary and Jamaican Black Castor Oil. The three ingredients are a powerful combination of loc strengtheners and moisturizers.

Glycerin is just another way that locs can receive much needed moisture.

‘Til next time,
Gail Mitchell
Editor
Loc’d Life Magazine
http://www.locdlife.com